More with don Americo
To continue sharing about our adventure with our shaman . . .
One evening, Americo asked my husband David and me if we would like to have our tea leaves read by Migileto (who you met last week - the elder Paq’o who lived in one room in a building around the town square). We readily agreed!
Migileto led us in a sacred ceremony wherein he made an offering to Pachamama (Mother Earth) and conducted the service with the tea leaves. Then, we all sat quietly for a solemn moment. Migileto and Americo had an animated discussion in Quechua, each talking and responding to the other at length. David and I sat in silence, with anticipation about what wisdom we might receive. When their conversation ended, Americo turned to us and reported: “He said you have good energy.” That was it. We will never know what went on in that long discourse; however, the message was heartfelt, positive, and appreciated.
Americo told us we would be taking a long drive for our next outing and spending the night near Lake Titicaca. We drove four hours, passing over mountains over 14,000 feet in elevation, before arriving in Puno. We checked into our hotel, then drove on, arriving at the shore of the massive and beautiful Lake Titicaca. We were sitting on the rocks, enjoying the beautiful scene before us when we were approached by a woman who, we subsequently found out, was one of the leaders of the Aymara people who inhabited the area and subsisted by fishing in the lake.
The woman approached Americo, speaking her native tongue, so we had no idea what they were talking about. It was apparent though, that the discussion was somewhat heated. I was more fascinated by her hair being meticulously braided on one side, long and straight on the other. When there was a break in the conversation, I asked Americo to ask her if I could watch her braid the unbraided side of her hair. He translated, then she immediately went running off. We asked Americo what the conversation had been about. He said that she had been upset with him for bringing white foreigners to the lake. She believed that foreigners did not properly respect Pachamama and were the cause of the drought they had suffered for the last several years.
She returned soon thereafter, bringing many handwoven goods from the people of her village. Something had been lost in translation, where she was obviously thinking we were asking to see her weavings. We shifted our attention and marveled at the beautiful colors and skilled craftsmanship. We purchased several items. She then arranged for some of the fishermen from the village to take us out on the lake in their small boats, using long poles to propel us across the pristine water. We went about 100 yards off shore in our two- person craft to a small island, which was no more than a large boulder. After a brief, peaceful meditation on the rock island, the fisherman returned us to the shore.
Before leaving Puno for our trip to Lake Titicaca, we had purchased fruit, breads, cheeses and other items to get us through the day. David and I thought we bought too much food and did not know what we would do with it all. Upon returning from our boat ride, we were joined by many of the villagers and we gathered together for a spontaneous lunch. We had so much food there was plenty for everyone. It was a festive picnic. We were all laughing and enjoying each other’s company, sitting in a grassy field next to Lake Titicaca. We connected with the village elders who invited us to stay at their homes the next time we came to visit. It was a magnificent experience of connection and Ayni (translated from Quechua, meaning Reciprocity). As we gathered our belongings to travel back home, and were saying our farewells to our new friends, it started pouring rain. The drought had ended!
Read the conclusion to our adventures with don Americo Yabar here.